Hillcrest Premium Chardonnay 2006 (Yarra Valley, Vic)
Cork, $50

Hillcrest probably doesnt need any preamble – they don’t need any help selling the glorious wines. Tiny yields, all natural winemaking, the mentorship of Phillip Jones (of Bass Phillip) and old Yarra vines in the Woori Yallock subregion, make the wines that David & Tanya Bryant craft special.

The nose has a flor like, worked yeast edge to it that is edging towards aldehydic. Nuts, cream with a background hint of oak. Its a mildly oxidative, very cleverly made nose that is winemaking of the highest order. The palate is even more impressive, its yeast driven, nutty and complex with a lingering, nougat and burnt butter palate. The finish is quite extraordinary – the lingering flavours are long, creamy and warmly comforting. It lasts for minutes. There is some back palate alcohol heat, but that is probably the only detraction. Its Yarra winemaking of the highest order, and in 2-3 years it will fill out some more. 18.5+