Grosset Springvale Riesling 2008 (Watervale, SA)
Screwcap, $35

As is so often the case in its youth, I much prefer Mr Grosset’s Watervale Riesling over the much more lauded Polish Hill example. What this bottle served to highlight however, was that this vintage of Grosset Riesling requires ageing. As a young wine this is, dare I say it, a little over the top. Which also got me thinking about the Polish Hill of a few weeks ago, which I found unconvincing – perhaps it just needs more patience?

A green yellow colour, the nose is very typical Watervale – lime juice in large concentrations. It fairly jumps out of the glass in its unmistakable intensity, which sets the tone for the whole wine: Intensity. The palate starts with more of this lime juice, citrussy fruit character that dominates the whole front end. By taste alone I think the grapes for this where picked at near optimum ripeness (and riper than many in the Valley too) for the absolute ‘fullness’ of limey Riesling fruit flavour. Aside from some of the seriously intense (and surprisingly alcoholic – 13.5% is not uncommon) German Kabinett styles, not much can touch the ripe intensity of a wine like this.

After the initial fruit onslaught comes the citrussy, bristling acidity. Its quite brutal, but a key part of the wine, rubber stamping this as ‘ageing material’. The acidity became even more dominant and awkward as the wine warmed up, just to hammer the message home.

In all honesty, this is a mildly hard drink at present – its just a little fierce. However, the future will be very kind to this wine.18.3++