Two Chardonnays from a 20 year old Denmark vineyard. I particularly like the low alcohol here – refreshing trend.

Singlefile Estate Unwooded Chardonnay 2008 (Denmark, WA) $22, Screwcap, 12.8%
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Very light yellow/green in colour, the nose has faint white peach, grapefruit and just a fleck of cream. The palate is similarly softly spoken, with a creamy, peaches & lime character that is clean & very fresh, if just a little metallic. Ultimately the wine is a little unfocused and light, but its certainly refreshing enough, in a lemon/grapefruit meets Chablis style. Personally, I want a little more intensity & definition for $22 and can’t help but feel that there are more convincing Unwooded Chardonnays in this price point. 15.3

Singlefile Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2008 (Denmark, WA) $45, Screwcap, 13.4%

Initially I wasn’t overly impressed by this, but as it warmed up to me, I warmed up to it. The cautionary tale then is that Chardonnay isn’t always well served when served well chilled.

Less green in colour & an immediate step up from the Estate in intensity, with a much fuller nose of spicy french oak and white peach, the oak imparting more richness and obvious appeal. The palate is quite complex, showing some nifty barrel work which serves to impart a creamy, layered mouthful of worked Chardy. A streak of sweet apricotty fruit injects some generosity and the whole palate finishes dry and clean. Good stuff. 17.5