The Story Grampians Shiraz 2008 (Grampians, Vic)
$24, Screwcap, 13.5%

‘Natural yeast, wooden fermenters, unfined, unfiltered and finally a full time occupation’

What an impressive line to see on an under $25 bottle of wine. The ‘full time occupation’ references Rory Lane’s evolution from part time producer into full time vigneron.
Smart move if the quality of previous releases is a judge.

This wine also shows a deft touch, with an element of natural winemaking about it that I find very attractive. Purple/mauve in colour and looking youthful, the nose shows blackberry jam & plum conserve, with skinsy, peppery overtones, without straying away from that bright purple, Grampians Shiraz plum jam richness.

Suitably, the palate follows this with a lovely soft and expansive flow of blackberry fruit, in a plump, yet quietly powerful expression of fruit richness. The boysenberry & licorice sweetness kicks up at the mid palate mark, before just a hint of back palate grip & Licoricey overtones. It’s a little attenuated on the finish, though this probably reflects the fact that it was practically bottled yesterday.

Drinking this actually reminded me of Foillard’s Morgons in its juicy, understated brightness, a style of wine that I can drink by the bucketload. Love that naturalness in my wines.

This then is great stuff at a great price. 18/92+