Scarborough White Label Chardonnay 2009 (Hunter Valley, NSW)
14%, Screwcap, $30
Source: Sample
www.scarboroughwine.com.au

Scarborough White Label Chardonnay

Whilst the Australian Chardonnay evolution (towards a more finer, acid driven style) continues apace, it’s heartening to see that producers like Scarborough realise that good Chardonnay need not be lean (and particularly not from the Hunter Valley). This one needs bottle time to show it’s best, but plenty to give for the moment.

In the case of this Scarborough White Label Chardonnay, the message is all about varietal power. It leads off with a rather overt nose of whipped butter, fine grain, French vanilla oak, the oak looking particularly dominant when the wine is cold. As it warms up, the white peach fruit pops out and everything looks more settled, if large and a little volatile. The palate too is large and full, in an unashamedly Hunter form, with a grapefruit, peaches-and-cream, grilled nuts oak and fruit amalgam, finishing with chewy acidity and alcohol warmth.

It’s a big wine, no question, but a real mouthful too, with old school length and power. Much to get your mouth around then. It could do with a fraction more delicacy, and it’s got some late palate alcohol burn, but having cut my teeth on this style, I’m something of a fan. Good stuff. 17.8/92+