Derwent Estate Pinot Gris 2011

Derwent Estate Pinot Gris
I’ll have another glass for sure

Derwent Estate Pinot Gris 2011 (Tasmania)
13.4%, Screwcap, $25

Source: Sample
www.derwentestate.com.au

Why isn’t more Gris like this? As in, why does we not see more Australian Pinot Gris with texture, with a little sweetness, with interest? Who said that Australians only drink Grigio (or do they and I’m getting it wrong?). Anyway I took this to Zushi, a high quality Japanese BYO in inner city Sydney (all line caught fish too) which is an absolute favourite haunt of mine. This went down a treat with the food too, that wonderful push pull of richness and acidity working a treat, the bottle emptying at pace. Good sign that.

This still looked reasonably contained though until it warmed up, that musky richness sitting below the surface until it warmed up. After that it showed some rather nice, properly sweaty Aramis and peach juice Gris character that went from nose to palate. Said palate is on the more ‘mid’ weight step of the Gris palate scales, starting tight and then expanding through the middle before finishing with a fillip of sweetness. It’s all very correct really, again somewhat constrained but the constraint just reading as a good
balance between richness and lean acid line. Classic Alsace but on a diet. Nice wine and well worth the consideration. 17.8/92

Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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