St Hugo Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2016 looking lavish and oaky. But too much so?

St Hugo Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2016

It’s interesting to see how the St Hugo style hasn’t changed over the years, despite new wines being added to the range. Still ripe, old school oaky and thick, despite the movement – particularly for Grenache blends – towards more vitality. Is this what consumers want?

The first thing that pops out with this Grenache blend is the creamy oak lacquer, not fruit. There’s red raspberry juiciness too, even if it’s confronted by alcohol and acid, the oak acting like a shield over the top. The end result is more premium Aussie red wine made for the export market than anything else. Less terroir, more wine style. The density and the length is there, but I think I want a little less artefact and varietal character. Or maybe I’m just missing the point of what St Hugo is all about?

Best drinking: Wait a few years for the oak to integrate and then 10 years easily. 17/20, 90/100. 14.4%, $57.99. Would I buy it? A glass. But more importantly Would you?