I’ve met Kathleen Quealy (the Quealy behind Quealy Wines) a few times and she’s never been disappointing – there’s a twinkle of mischief and fun in her eyes which I always like to see.

What’s even more satisfying is just how good this Grigio is. Sure, Kathleen has the runs on the board, having been designated ‘the Queen of Pinot Grigio’ some years back. Still it’s nice to check back in see just what proper Grigio should taste like.

I say ‘proper’ but what I really mean is that this tastes like wine. Grigio is all-too-often boring, flavourless, acid-and-water stuff that seems totally devoid of a soul (unless its sweet. Then its not just a confused Grigio). But this wine is not.

Sure, it is clean, crisp and has that angular freshness of a wine made largely in tank, but there’s a tang here too, the nose smelling of pear, grapefruit and honeysuckle; the palate obviously dry and acid-focused, but with a softness and gentle edge that brings you back for another glass.

It’s perhaps a little lean to be a superstar, but I genuinely wanted to drink this – it tasted refreshing, yet still actually ripe and unadulterated.

Real Grigio, made by a real person who might actually give a shit about Pinot Grigio.

Source: Sample
Tasted: October 2014
Drink: 2014-2016
Score: 17.7/20, 92/100
Would I buy it? Yes. If I was in a thirsty mood and saw this on a list I’d jump.
Buy online: Quealy website