Quick 2 x 2004 Shiraz at lunch

Two identically priced, Pokolbin vinified and matured, screwcap sealed, 2004 vintage Shiraz.

But thats where the similarities end.

Cockfighters Ghost Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2004 Fruit for this was trucked several thousand kms from Mclaren Vale to the Pokolbin winery, where it was crushed, fermented and matured inn french oak. Surprisingly showing a little browning, this was quite medium bodied, with treacle, ripe red fruits and softening chocolate oak, with just a faint metallic edge to the maturing palate. Rather simple and disappointingly mature. Don’t like that metallic edge either. 15/20

Tyrrells Brokenback Shiraz 2004
The label looks plain tacky – Why did they change from the nice, classic Tyrrells label? This looks cheap and does the quality in the bottle no justice. Anyway… This is produced from Hunter fruit, and matured for in 18 months in one year old and older 2000 litre vats: Big beasts that you could hide in if up for some winery hide & seek (assuming they aren’t full).
From first whiff its distinctively Hunterish – its all soy sauce, leather, pepper & roast beef – nary a red berry in sight. The palate is medium bodied, tight & savoury with a soft, supple mouthfeel that is very inviting & drinkable. No mistaking the terroir here, its quite distinctive of 04 Hunter Shiraz too. Just 13.2% alc
If you like a bit of Hunter Shiraz, this is an enjoyable & very drinkable red. The vintages on either side are more impressive drinks, but I like that it shows the fruits of the vintage. 18/20

Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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