These two were consumed at a Parisian themed degustation at Mrs Top (Cremorne, Sydney) – a lovely little French restaurant that serves real French food with no BYO charge.
Domaine Leflaive Macon Verze 2006 (Macon, Burgundy, France)
$45, Cork
Yes its just a village level Burgundy, but ignore that and whats in the glass presents as an excellent introduction to this wine style – A lightly fragrant, roasted almond nose, with a quite restrained, even minerally palate. It has the distinctive broad richness like many from the Maconnais, but still has that back palate acid kick. Will only improve with some short term cellaring. A good value introduction to White Burgundy. 18.4/20+
Giaconda Nantua Les Deux 2006 (Beechworth, Vic) $45, Screwcap
This may as well have been from a different planet after the last wine. This is 93% Chardonnay with 7% Rousanne and the Chardonnay component is made in much the same fashion as its older brother, just with less new oak. Undoubtedly new world, this was clearer, brighter and lacking in tatrate crystals after the Leflaive, but also in its style a very impressive drink. On first whiff it seemed overpowered by yeasty richness and obvious oak – quite a shock after the much more restrained Burgundy, but this wine also has alot to say – on the nose there is obvious wild ferment characters, with big golden brioche and cream. The Rousanne contributes with some lovely floral zestiness – its like a hidden spice of a dash of rosewater. On the palate it is very rich and has a lovely intense mouthfeel. 18.4/20
I ended up giving the pair equal scores, as whilst they where both very different, they both presented as excellent drinking whites – The Leflaive had elegance, restraint and understated power, the Giaconda had obvious richness coupled with clever winemaking influences. Of the two however the Burgundy will improve more in the cellar
Comment
Andrew,
Very perceptive notes, I tried the Giaconda a month or more ago and came to a very similar conclusion.
Best of luck with the blog!