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Beyond the location, the wines aren’t half bad either, as witnessed by this tasting. Organised by the Central Otago Winegrowers Association, an industry body that encompasses most of the regions producers, the lineup included plenty of new labels as well as consistent performers, all with interesting wines to sell. Actually, the quality of the wines, particularly the 07 Pinots, were so high that the accolades look set to continue rolling in for this ‘so hot right now’ wine region, buoyed along by what must be the highest per bottle average price of anywhere throughout NZ.
The following wines were all tasted in typical trade tasting conditions – at speed, whilst trying to juggle a glass, tasting notes book and biscuit with cheese on it (love of dairy again) & listen to winemaker talk about oak treatments.
Olssens Riesling 2007Forget Pinot Gris and the rest, Central Otago is Riesling country (much more so than Marlborough I think). Riesling and Pinot, that should be the varieties to concentrate on, and its wines like this that can help the cause. Lightly toasty, but very backward and pure, with a metallic citrus nose. Really stony, cold nose. The palate is just off dry, but ripe and full in a dry Spatlese style. The lightly apricotty palate has real richness to it, the sugar and acid carefully matched (8.0g/l of acidity and 9 of sugar) making for a wine that couples the sweet richness of melon and pawpaw with a dry acid backbone. Delicious stuff. 17.7
Immediately sweeter and riper than the 06, with a real opulent sweet fruit nose. Very sweet & youthful palate. So much fresher and more vibrant than the 06, its actually very soft & pretty in a sweaty, polished style. Lovely wine, if quite a departure from the very serious 06. 17.7
Mt Difficulty Pinot Gris 2008
Smoky, sulphured, reductive nose (I read on the Mt Difficulty website that this had rather reductive handling in the winery and this bottle was freshly opened in front of me. A few hours in the glass would have helped alot). Palate is very dry and clean with raspy acidity. Surprising to see how dry this was, can’t help but feel it could have done with a bit more RS. A few years bottle age should also help this along too. 16.5+
Roaring Meg Pinot Noir 2008
What a great value slice of Central Otago Pinot this is. Sappy, classic Pinot nose of red fruits and seasoned with toasty oak. The palate is a bit firm at present, but much to like here – authentic, juicy, well structured and still more improvement ahead. Highly recommended stuff. 17.3
Mt Difficulty Estate Pinot Noir 2007
Aromatic nose – cinnamon, cloves, raspberries. Tight, firm & very dry palate is quite backward compared to come 07s, but much to look forward too. Very good 17.5+
Mt Difficulty Pipeclay Terrace Pinot Noir 2007
After the Estate Pinot, this is immediately oakier and chunkier on the nose, riper but also wilder. The palate is similarly more aggressive, with rich, powerful redcurrant fruit thats almost Shiraz like in its power, in a very serious mould indeed. Long, astringent powerful palate. Very serious & undeniably top shelf, if just a bit too burly for immediate enjoyment. I was impressed regardless. 18.2++
Wooing Tree Rose 2008Very light, lean rose thats very pretty but all too short (my common complaint for this style) the light, white wine like palate failing to satisfy. 15.9
Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2007
Fleshy, opulent and open nose thats very inviting and just plain delicious. Lightly confected, but its all well balanced. Nice earthen edge to the finish. Just plain yum and good value too. 17.7
Wooing Tree Sandstorm Reserve Pinot Noir 2007
Sweetly grapey nose, much like the standard label Pinot in its opulent ripe grapeyness, with an extra level of oaky richness to the the palate, though the mid palate is quite raw in its expression, with oak tannins drying up the tail. Long way to go. I prefer the standard wine at present, though time will change things. Excessive pricing ($120). 17.3++
Desert Heart Seduction Pinot 2007
Excellent packaging on these Desert Heart wines, really clever. The wines aren’t quite there yet, but should do with time. This has a really fun, open again fleshy nose, the palate ‘plush like a pillow’ yet with a dry edge. Rich and fruit sweet, though a short finish detracts just a little. Good stuff regardless. 17.1
Desert Heart Estate Pinot Noir 2007Soapy (oak?) edge to the nose, palate is sour and shortish. Its obviously very well structured and built for bottle age, but still a little plain and ungenerous. 16.8+
Desert Heart Estate Pinot Noir 2006
Mulchy & vegetative nose, palate is already drying out, finishing dry and lean. Not much fun now, could sort itself out with time. 15.9+
Amisfield Pinot Noir 2007
Classic nose, really perfumed and bright, the palate is similarly lifted, yet not sweet, presenting as the perfect Pinot Noir. Even a bit of funk for interest. Excellent and very pure indeed. 18
Amisfield Rocky Knoll Pinot Noir 2007
I actually prefer the standard wine at present and the score represents it. Funky, slightly rubbery and compacted nose, giving fair indication of the big and extractive palate. Its undoubtedly powerful and well built, but really needs some bottle age. Score will improve greatly with time. 17.8++
Carrick Unravelled Pinot Noir 2008
Disappointment. I’m quite a fan of the Carrick style, but this seems lacking. Sweet, simple, hollow nose, to the point of confected. Similarly too lean palate. Ordinary. 15.4
Carrick Estate Pinot Noir 2007
Typically burly Carrick style. Big, punchy, powerful nose. Very firm and tannic, its a hulking Pinot Noir of serious extract. A steak drinkers Pinot. 17.6+
Carrick Estate Pinot Noir 2005Slightly thin & mousy, raspberry/cranberry nose, the palate has serious mid palate and grippy finish, but it also feels like the fruit is struggling to keep up. Don’t know how this one will age..16.7
Carrick Estate Pinot Noir 2004
Maturing, animale & roasted nut nose, nice to see some Pinot stink. Palate is carrying a bit of stewed gameyness that will only increase with age, but I like the real expression here. More attractive than the 05. 17.1
Carrick Pinot Noir 2003
‘Roasted duck with orange glaze’ is written in my notebook (I must have been hungry) but gives indication of how appetite inducing this woody, meaty maturing Pinot is. I liked it. 17.1
Two Paddocks ‘Picnic’ Pinot Noir 2007
Sweet red fruit & sap nose, underneath its very light, pretty and openly structured, perfectly suited to drinking at a picnic. Simple and tasty – Nice stuff. 17
Two Paddocks Pinot Noir 2007
I really enjoy these Two Paddocks wines, really silken and very attractive indeed. This more serious (after the ‘Picnic’) has lovely sweet, fruit cake and spice, leading to a pure and, dare I say it, almost minerally palate. Very light footed, without being sweet or flabby. Big fan of the style. 17.7
Rockburn Devils Staircase Pinot Noir 2008
Rockburns cheapie and I was no fan. Bubblegum and cherries on the hollow, thin nose, the palate is very sweet and dull. Vanilla edged fruit juice. 15.0
Rockburn Pinot Noir 2007
Really sweet edge to the nose, the palate is classical in its fleshy, mid weight styling, though I find the oak a little heavy handed. Should integrate better with some bottle age, the rating reflects this. 17
Prophets Rock Pinot Noir 2006
Winery to watch. Dry, sawdusty nose that is typical of many 06 pinots here, coupled here with some caramelly oak. Palate is very dry and backward, desperately in need of some time, though it may still be a bit too hollow. 16.5+
Prophets Rock Pinot Noir 2007
Oaky & firm again, this has enough fruit though to carry it off. Big, powerful, firmly structured and very serious, if not together yet. Should be very good. 17.5+
Prophets Rock Riesling 2007
Tipping its lid to Alsace, this has seen some barrel time and lees work, making for a rather funky, rubber & turkish delight nose, the palate is undoubtedly interesting, though just a tad underpowered for all the winery action. Definitely a wine to watch in future vintages though. 17
Prophets Rock Pinot Gris 2007
More Alsatian style again, this is rich & plump, driven by full apricot and grape hubba bubba flavours. This is arguably an even more impressive wine than the Riesling, the extra richness and sweetness seeming more natural than in the Riesling. I like the style alot, even if it doesn’t totally convince. 17.1
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4 Comments
Hmm, I have been to Central Otago and I would not say Tuscany, the Rhine, or the inland areas of Bordeaux take second place in the picturesque category! More along the topic of wines, I generally found the whites in Central Otago quite good but didn't find the reds that outstanding.
haven't tried any otago pinots yet, but they sound interesting. From what I understand they are supposed to be fairly big wines as far as pinot goes?
cheers
Andy
They can be quite big wines, but I think Martinborough and Waipara makes bigger.
I tend to associate Central Otago with Pinot purity – pretty, floral, red fruited wines that pay homage to classical varietal Pinot character.
The main challenge is that it is a very marginal grape growing region, so getting the balance between ripeness, structure and flavour right can be quite challenging, particularly with a vine age that is generally very low.
Regardless, Central Otago makes some of NZ's best Pinots, even if they aren't the most consistent. Much like Burgundy then..
Nice write up Andrew. I have tried quite a few of those wines and tend to agree with much of what you have said.