What are Australia’s most ageworthy Pinot Noirs?
That’s a question that I have been pondering over the past week as I sat around in various doctors waiting rooms, mindlessly flicking through dog eared 4 year old Readers Digests and (strangely current) issues of Australian Yachting.
What kicked off this (typically random) obsessive wine thought was Dan Coward’s thought provoking comment (here) noting just how variable the results from older Australian (and New Zealand) pinots can be.
So, I’ve decided to write a list. Yes, another list. This time a Pinot list, highlighting Australia’s most ageworthy Pinot Noirs. This one, however, has a different slant from last weeks value collection, with the main criteria for entry based as much upon reputation and consistency than actual current vintages.
The real challenge though with writing a Pinot list like this one is that it is still so Victoria-centric, stacked with estates an hour from Melbourne that served as weekenders for wealthy, Pinot loving Melbourne businessman back in the 70’s and 80’s (and even now almost into the teens)
But I’m also keen to highlight the new generation of cellar worthy Australian Pinot Noirs, which is why this list is split into two – on one (larger) hand, the established ‘dress circle’ of renowned producers, on the other, the newer (somewhat) generation of smart, one-eye-on-the-cellar Pinot makers.
Here we go:
Australia’s 10 most ageworthy Pinot Noirs
Old School
Mount Mary Pinot Noir
As Yarra as they come. Melbourne doctor with firm ideas makes the wines he wants to drink, with the tradition now carried on by his descendants. This bottle alone gets this wine an entry onto the list.
Yarra Yering Pinot Noir
Even older school. Yarra Yering is probably better know for its red blends than its straight pinots, but they age with similar gracefulness.
Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir
Gary Farr’s baby, this listing could even include the base Bannockburn Pinot such is it’s ageability. Gary moved on to his newer project (below) some time ago, but the Serre was still his wine. Micheal Glover is a particularly talented winemaker though, so expect the new Serre’s to be just as good.
By Farr Sangreal Pinot Noir
Perhaps this should fit into the new school As Burgundian a Pinot as you are likely to find in Australia. Serious, fine, dense and structured, this will live and live (though has some occasional bottle variation). The new Tout Pres promises to be even more cellar worthy (eventually).
Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir
Arguably South Australia’s most impressive Pinot Noir, with a reputation for maturing well in the cellar. A serious structure and no shortage of intensity help this to be such an ageworthy prospect.
Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir
I’m leaving this as the Estate Pinot for consistency, but obviously the Reserve and Premium label present a step up in quality again. Whichever of these three wines you get, at the very least it will be a characterful Pinot (though variability is an issue). Personally, I think that Bass Phillip makes the finest Pinots in Australia. Which reminds me, I really should buy some more of the bargain ’21’…
Domaine A Pinot Noir
Producer of Australia’s longest lived Pinots, the Domaine A style is sturdy, dry and idiosyncratic. A high tolerance of sappy, minty ‘marginal’ Pinot characters is required to really love them, but this is one wine that, given the requisite bottle age, can produce some seriously high notes.
Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir
Once famously confused with a grand cru burgundy, and each year shown to be a serious contender at the annual SIPNOT tastings, the distinctive, powerful Stonier style was made thanks to some strong wines in the late 90’s early noughties. In recent years a change in ownership has done the estate little favours, with many of the talented staff now long gone. Still, there is a legacy there, and when on song these are seriously fine Mornington Pinots.
New School
Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir
Some might argue whether this – or the ‘Haven’ – is the longest lived single vineyard Kooyong Pinot, but what’s not up for debate is how taut, firmly structured and plain delicious this wine is. Sandro Mosele can rightly claim to be producing some of the finest Pinots on the Mornington Peninsula and this is the wine that I think represents his finest work.
Bindi Block Five Pinot Noir
Some might argue that the Original Vineyard Pinot Noir should get top billing, but I think argue this is the most tannic and darkest of Michael Dhillon’s Pinots (and hence the most ageworthy). It’s a wine that is both serious and seductive, just like Pinot should be. Given that this vineyard is now nearing twenty years old, this wine might not be as ‘new school’ as I’m asserting, but it’s still very much a new school wine style.
I know I’ve left a few out, but who would be in your top 10 ageworthy Australian Pinots?
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27 Comments
To clarify a point – I'm defining ageworthy as the ability to mature, and indeed improve, with cellaring times for 8 years plus.
Andrew,
I'm yet to have a really beguiling old >8 year old Aussie pinot. I'm hoping this will change. . . I've been keeping some of the Bindi Block 5 from 2005 and would expect these to deliver the goods.
The only 8 year old Stonier Reserve I tried was a shadow of its former self.
I think Aussie pinots have come along in leaps and bounds since 2002 onwards and are very exciting. They have the beauty of youth, but so far not the ability to last. Though as I mentioned above – hopefully this facet is starting to emerge.
I agree with Ed about the Stonier; had the current vintage and seemed tired and sappy. I would include the Bindi Original Vineyard definately. having worked with Michael up at Bindi I would suggest that the OV has as much staying power, if not more than the Block 5 has.
Others of mention:
Barrat – Adelaide Hills
Epis – Macedon Ranges
Dr Mayer, Timo Mayer _Yarra Valley
Punch Close Planted – Yarra Valley
Merricks Creek Close Planted – Mornington Penn
Paradigm Hill L'ami sage – Mornington Penn
Tarrington Cuvee Emily – Tarrington Vic
Picardy?
Curly Flat – Jancis loves it!
Lethbridge – doing brilliant stuff!
Tapanappa – limited track record but the maker…
Curly Flat is right up there for sure. As the vines age, Tapanappa will get there as well.
I also thought about Coldstream Hills on this list, but perhaps it's not quite for the long term?
Had an excellent older Scorpo Pinot last year too.
I do question the average drinking age for most Pinots in Australia. I suspect most people drink them too young and miss out on the aged versions. What do most folk think about optimal age for decent Pinot Noir? I'd say 5-10y which is medium term vs Shiraz / Cab Sav.
Also re NZ Pinots, what would be up there? Craggy, Felton, Ata Rangi, Mt Difficulty?
Happy that my question tapped into what others were wondering. Agree with the Top 10 Andrew and have been especially excited by Mount Mary and Bass Phillip on the one occasion I've tried each, and Ashton Hills on the many times I've had the pleasure. I also had the Stonier '06 Windmill SV Pinot last week and it was absolutely superb; elegant, complex and beautifully textured.
Great Pinot should be able to age well for DECADES. Sure the fruit disappears and the structure and tannins change, but old Pinot can be utterly ethereal – that is what Aussie and Kiwi producers need to strive for (even if it means it closes down for a couple years to begin with!)
Of to a Central Otago masterclass in a couple of hours and hope to see some older vintages – will report back.
Working vintage at Spring Vale on the East Coast of Tasmania in 2008, they were pulling their 1991 pinot noir out of their own cellar, and that was just fantastic drinking.
I think you'll struggle to find any producer in Australia with a CONSISTENT track record of long-lived pinots, but from year to year, there will always be truly ageworthy ones here and there.
You're throwing up names like Tappanappa, but seriously, give it 10 years before you start rating them. They're too new. Lethbridge are the same.
Inconsistency, you would haw to argue, is the bugbear of Pinot Noir, though that also gives 'character' (like the Bass Phillips which can be all over the shop).
I think the list above tends to highlight consistency and proven results (proven to me at least). I haven't had any older Spring Vale Pinots that have really impressed, hence they aren't on this list, though I was there in Nov last year and the wines are nothing if not high quality (and quite ageworthy). Ditto Freycinet for that matter.
Simultaneously glad and perhaps surprised to see Ashton Hills in your list Andrew! You Sydneysiders are a multicultural lot aren't you? Are Ashton's better wines (not the PV) popular/common in Sydney?
From a vertical I did with Stephen George last year (covering 02-09) I can attest that his pinots do indeed age well (miles better than anyone else in SA, but Croser might have something to say about that soon), but even Stephen wasn't willing to pull anything out older than 8 years…
Cheers,
Chris P
p.s. every time I talk Tasmanian pinot with a serious pinot maker they always seem to come up with the same thing:- "Tasmanian pinot is over rated, too herbal and acidic (I disagree I think it's improving in leaps and bounds) but one guy can make proper pinot down there – Lubiana!"
I notice there's no Tasmanians on this list, anyone opinions on Stefano's ageworthiness Andrew?
Don't forget the Domaine A – that's Taswegian!
No question about the ageability of current Stefano Lubiana releases – they are excellent. But have had some very mixed results with older bottles.
Oh and us Sydneysiders have to look elsewhere for good Pinot – you won't find much reliable stuff in NSW (though there is promise in Orange, maybe even Tumbarumba eventually).
Interesting tasting of 06, 07 and 08 Central Otago Pinots yesterday in Sydney. When I asked Malcolm Rees-Francis of Rockburn about the ageworthiness of Otago Pinots he said that the region needed much more time to learn about their wines and vineyards and also years for the vines to age. He sees the region as the Burgundy of the South and aspires to reach that level of ageworthiness…just give it 50 years to get there.
The vintages showed very interesting variations. The 06 wines were slightly more tannic and at times seemed slightly disjointed – Rockburn and Mount Difficulty stood out for me. The 07 line-up I felt was very strong (though others in the room disagreed). Textural, silky, complete, balanced wines I thought, with Felton Road Calvert vineyard and Rippon shining through. Lot of interesting background about what a calamitously difficult vintage it was, with snow falling every month of the growing season and very poor fruit set, hence miniscule yields. The 2008s had more acid and were further behind in their development than the other two vintages – one even reminded me of tasting good village Burgundy en primeur from barrel. It will be very interesting to see how they develop.
Good recon work Dan. Well done.
What about those quiet achievers up at gembrook hill? Upper yarra, they're at the highest point, the coolest point in the yarra .
Gembrook, Andrew & Timo's own label wines (Wanderer and Mayer respectively) certainly make a case but they are all still so new. Gembrook has certainly got runs on the board, but I've not had enough older wines to be convinced.
Just down the hill though, in Woori Yallock, lies Hillcrest whom I would argue sits on the cusp of the top ten (or my top ten at least).
Several other Tasmanian producers can make long lived wines, though not quite with enough consistency yet. Pipers Brook have certainly been doing it longer than most, but recent wines haven't quite matched the lofty price tags. Delamere, Apsley Gorge and Panorama Vineyard all produce wines that could live for a very long time, though again a few more vintages are required for them to come into contention for this 'best of' list.
To your last comment AG, I was talking to Andrew Marks last week and he mentioned that their 1992 Gembrook Pinot is still holding up.
Very interesting topic, and i think it will be fascinating to see how such a list might change or be expanded in 10 years time. Seems to me like there are an ever increasing number of Australian wineries making Pinot that have all the elements in place to suggest they will age well.
Two obvious omissions to me are Main Ridge Half Acre, which I have enjoyed at 10 years plus and Beechworth i.e. Giaconda and possibly Savaterre. Curly Flat might be quite varied.
I share the view that Tasmanian Pinots still have a while to go before a consistent producer emerges. Domaine A is an interesting inclusion. I have been disappointed.
Giaconda I thought about but it's just too varied (lucky the Chardonnay is much more consistent. I actually quite like the Giaconda Cab too).
Savaterre is a good one though Alontin, like them young and old.
Bah, Curly Flat are a monty Alontin 🙂 2000 still drinking well this year and most would say they've only gotten better since that vintage. 2004 will go 10+ easy.
Windy Ridge Pinot Noirs (Foster, South Gippsland)are typically at their best between 10 and 15 years. The oldest is now 23 (from 1988) and is still sound. A 1998 drank last weekend had good developed fruit, & colour to the edge of the glass. Looking forward to trying one in another 5 years. Cheers, Graeme Wilson (Windy Ridge winemaker). http://twitter.com/WindyRidgeWine
Just had an 06 gembrook hill pinot Amazing for the price $40
William Downie, Gippsland, surely…
Just had Apsley Gorge 2008 and I can't remember having a better pinot. And that includes Burgundy. Not sure how long it could cellar, but I'd say at least 10 years. Monumental!
Agree with Alontin, where is Nat's Half Acre and Giaconda?
Ballarat offers Nintingbool which I had an 04 last year that was still going
Giaconda still too variable. A Chardonnay vineyard. Main Ridge is right up there though
I had two bottles of the 1993 Wignall's Reserve Pinot Noir at Xmas 2012 and both of them were superb.