Tim Smith Mataro Grenache Shiraz 2009
$28, Screwcap Luxe (and a good looking new one at that), 14.5%
Source: Retail
www.timsmithwines.com.au
Forget Shiraz, the future of the Barossa is all about Mataro. Or at least Mataro/Grenache/Shiraz blends like this, with the proportions altered according to what looks good each year. This wine shows just how attractive the blend can be, further emphasising also how impressive 09 looks to be in the Barossa.
Lovely nose. Lush, plush, meaty, stinky, stalky, peppery and fresh, with every whiff giving off something different, suggesting complexity aplenty. The whole bunch influence here is very positive (or at least I think so) giving an extra depth of fragrance and depth. Palate follows this with plump berry fruit that tastes like plum and cooked berry concentrate, such is its richness and intensity, in a solid flow of ripeness. It’s just a fraction stewed towards the mid palate and there is quite a suggestion of ironstone on the palate – something reductive and dark in there which I’m picking as old Mataro doing it’s thing. Finish is long, slightly gritty and lasts for plenty.
In short, there is much to like about this Barossan red blend. It’s still coming together as a wine, but the purity of expression is right up there. Like it alot. 17.7/92+
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5 Comments
I personally agree that GSMs and Mataros are going to take the place of Shiraz in the Barossa Valley floor hierarchy (if they haven't alreday done so), but I can't help but feel you are running the same risk as Jefford with your opening two words.
There are still many lolly like GSMs on retail shelves and Mataro is still not foremost in most consumer's minds. Before the future of the Barossa is seen in terms of these wines and not Shiraz, there is an enormous (and I mean gargantuan) amount of "education" to be successfully carried out by the wine "media".
McLaren Vale falls into the same category to a large extent and it was interesting to hear Michael Fragos of Chapel Hill say that their commitment to Shiraz is still the most important thing.
I'm not saying you don't prefer the other wines to Shiraz, but I do think there is bandwagon gathering speed here, and I for one think that it should only be boarded with a great deal of thought. Not saying you haven't given it that thought, but inevitably you will be grouped in with those who haven't. I think it's a very complex and difficult issue. And I think Shiraz has a future in both the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. In the short term at least, Shiraz will be crucial to the survival of both regions.
Just food for thought…
Good response JP.
This is indeed a very complex and difficult issue, wound up as it is in the potentialities of climate change and/or shifts in wine tastes.
From a viticultural point of view though (and we are talking about the Valley floor here, not the wider Barossa zone) it's hard to argue with the compelling case for such a blend.
To clarify that opening sentence, however, I think the judicious use of 'just' would help enormously.
Forget just Shiraz, the future of the Barossa is all about Mataro. Or at least Mataro/Grenache/Shiraz blends like this, with the proportions altered according to what looks good each year.
If the gargantuan education takes place on decent GSM blends and the masses buy it, there'll be less for the rest of us! As the saying goes "Let them eat cake", let them drink shiraz 🙂
But seriously, shiraz is the Chardonnay of the reds. ABC – anything but chardonnay for some people. but most winemakers i've talked to say Chardonnay ABC – always brings cash. Same for Shiraz. In a period of financial instability in the industry, no one is going to be focussing on anything other than the cash cow. We will just have to be content with the state of Mataro for now. There's enough good suppliers out there to keep the balance with the limited demand. It sounds like this wine is an example of one of those good ones.
Tim
http://www.WineAroundOz.com
Indeed, the word "just" makes all the difference 🙂
To further clarify, I still love Barossa Shiraz, but over the longer term it's hard to argue with the appeal, from both a drinking and viticultural point of view, of MGS, GSM, SGM etc blends.