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Voyager Estate Chardonnay 2006 In the zone… |
Voyager Chardonnay 2006 (Margaret River, WA)
13.2%, Screwcap, $30ish on release
Source: Brought to dinner by a Wining Pom
www.voyagerestate.com.au
I first tried this wine (almost to the day) 3 years ago and at the time said this: ‘Buy some, bury it away in a cold dark cellar and return to civilisation in a few years time.’ Thank God that Patrick Haddock took my advice (I’m sure it was my note that got him to buy it of course…).
For this looks fabulous, the very model of what a high quality, bottle aged, cool climate Chardonnay should be. If anything it looks rather un-Margaret River like thanks to the cool year, the melon richness of classic Margs Chardonnay tempered into a mealy, grapefruity and moderate style of hidden power and silken richness. Still looking very young, I couldn’t help but marvel at the line, coiled power and intensity of this white.
Obviously it’s still very much a new world wine, with oak and fruit richness that isn’t ‘classically Burgundian’ (read lean and minerally). Yet in its mode this is a rather high quality, long and highly enjoyable Chardonnay of appeal and length. Big fan. 18.5/94
7 Comments
Nice words, would love to see this wine again. I really liked it on release, sounds delicious now. Meanwhile, did you just re-designate MR as cool climate…? 😉
Hi Mike – glad to hear you liked the '06 too. I work with the Voyager team so I'll see if we can send a bottle your way so you can see how it's looking now. It's not available at the moment ('08 current release), but it will be re-released mid-year as part of the museum wines program. Cheers – Justine Rebien
Nah, it was only cool climate in 2006!
How many more years would you give it – think I have about 10 bottles floating around.
By the way, I remember going to a Taste of WA masterclass in Sydney once and the guy running that correcting me on the regions that are truly cool climate in Australia!
It's amazing about the definitions of 'cool'. Even the Barossa is 'cool' under some definitions. Here is a good one though (from the cool climate wine show).
For the purpose of this Show, Cool Climate will be defined as wine made from grapes coming from a
vineyard where there are:
(a) Heat Degree days 1600 or less
(b) Cool nights in growing season
(c) Four distinct seasons
(d) Large variation in daytime to nighttime temperatures
(e) Cool autumns
As for this wine, I'd give it another 5 years without struggle. Structured to last.
Coincidentally enough… I had one of these with dinner tonight. Just starting to hit its straps. Only two bottles left unfortunately! Maybe one this time next year and one the year after?
Just drink them all now! I would. I have some 05 in the cellar which is in the drink pile.