Nugan ‘Matriarch’ Shiraz 2006 (McLaren Vale, SA)
15%, Screwcap, $65
Source: Sample
www.nuganestate.com.au

Old school McLaren Vale Shiraz this and tastes it – a flashback from an era when richness and concentration dominated elegance, and 24 months in 100% new French and American oak was an essential Vale Shiraz recipe.

But we’re in 2013 and oaky wines, like this one, look like dinosaurs. Still, maybe I’m jumping the gun a bit. This was made in 2006, so the oak handling probably wasn’t ridiculous for the time. Further, it was always made to be aged, so oak fortification was probably considered necessary.

Coffee tables. Freshly sanded floors.. Oak. Decadent oak actually, $65 ‘icon wine’ barriques, with oak flavours, oak tannins and a hint of oak to finish. It’s rich oak though and the fruit underneath is rich too – it’s definitely not bad fruit. Tannins are soft, acidity is added.

Many will love that richness methinks. Middle aged blokes mainly. But everyone else will just, ultimately, see this for what it is – an unbalanced oakasaurus. Pity, as it could have been much tastier.

Drink: 2013-2020
Score: 15.8/20 87/100

Would I buy it? No.