A rather more evolved beast than its younger brother, I applaud the winemaking merit here, though think this might have been a more complete wine 12 months ago.

It’s a sparkling driven by both bottle age and long lees ageing (seven years on lees), the wine full and generous through the middle, if just a bit cheesy and even a fraction decayed to finish, the acidity noticeably soft and gentle.

Noble intent, just needing a little more than just mid palate richness to carry the wine. Drink up.

Drink: 2013-2014
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? Not quite.