Freeman Secco 2009 (Hilltops, NSW)
14.5%, Screwcap, $35
Source: Sample
www.freemanvineyards.com.au

The only ‘real’ Amarone homage in Australia (real as it is a blend of Rondinella and Corvina) and always a wine that needs some air-time to come together. Still, I looked at this over two days and it never quite looked ‘typical’ – a much lighter and less convincing Secco than we’ve seen recently.

Regardless, the structural core here is quite exquisite – superbly shaped and finessed tannins that are very attractive. The contrast is that the mid palate looks leaner and lacking the intensity you’d normally see in a wine made using the appassimento process. In fact, you’d probably be hard pressed to pick much dried grape characters at all this vintage (which could be a style thing or a vintage thing).