Freeman Secco 2009 (Hilltops, NSW)
14.5%, Screwcap, $35
The only ‘real’ Amarone homage in Australia (real as it is a blend of Rondinella and Corvina) and always a wine that needs some air-time to come together. Still, I looked at this over two days and it never quite looked ‘typical’ – a much lighter and less convincing Secco than we’ve seen recently.
Regardless, the structural core here is quite exquisite – superbly shaped and finessed tannins that are very attractive. The contrast is that the mid palate looks leaner and lacking the intensity you’d normally see in a wine made using the appassimento process. In fact, you’d probably be hard pressed to pick much dried grape characters at all this vintage (which could be a style thing or a vintage thing).
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Score: 17/20 90/100
Would I buy it? Not quite convinced as yet
I agree – it's fruit-forward and light in a way that left me a little disappointed. Like Henry Rollins doing an acoustic folk album. The Freeman Neb 2012 has the edge here (which I didn't expect). I hope the 2013 vintage gets heavy again.