Arguably the best ‘worked’ style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in the market, Dog Point’s Section 94 continues to perform, the style managing to be both weighty and yet still tightly formed, all without relying on excesses of oak or yeast. In fact, the only odd thing about this wine is the continued use of cork as a closure, which will always be a curious choice (for the record, Ivan Sutherland – one half of Dog Point – prefers this wine under cork, even after toying with it under screwcap).

The name Section 94 refers to a part of the (now certified organic) Dog Point vineyard, the grapes always handpicked and fermented wild in older oak, before spending a further 18 months in barrel with regular battonage.

A wine of power and pungency, this has an amazingly concentrated nose that is laden with solidsy funk, cream and a little formic oak over white asparagus Sauvignon fruit. Unmistakeable as anything but a ripe, fumé style of Sauv, yet in a style that is a step closer to Sancerre than most Marlborough SBs.

With a huge palate of powerful fruit and winemaking induced weight, this is a gold medal wine on intensity alone, finished off with lemon and grapefruit acidity to clean everything up. Actually, it looks drier and a little firmer than the 2010, making for a Section 94 that could really do with another 6 months in bottle (as I’d probably prefer to drink the 2010 now).

Regardless, this is a wow Sauvignon Blanc of unparalleled intensity. Excellent really.

Drink: 2013-2018
Score: 18.5/20, 94/100
Would I buy it? Yes. I have and will.