I’m in Shiraz mode today, with a suite of Shiraz and blends open on the bench. 

These two, however, I pulled out to taste separately (single blind) as I thought they would be reasonably similar. In truth they’re so different (and representative of place and maker) that tasting blind was a waste of time…

Galafrey Dry Grown Shiraz 2009 (Mt Barker, WA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $28
Source: Sample
www.galafreywines.com.au

From the 33 year old dry grown estate vineyard, this showcases the hearty rusticity that Galafrey is known for. Sees two years in oak, which oak fortifies the wine a fraction, though this is clearly a big wine regardless – full of spicy black plums, thick purple fruit and black pepper. There’s a nice contrast here of deep, limitless of flavour and a rather, drying meaty finish that all points to low crops and long oak ageing, with an intensity that brings you back every time. Judging by length alone this is a winner, if in a slightly rustic form.

Drink: 2013-2023
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? With something meaty I’d definitely drink a bottle.