The Story Garden Gully Shiraz 2011 (Grampians, Vic)
13.5%, Screwcap, $50
100 year old vines, open fermentation in old, open puncheons, 40% whole bunches, tiny production (just 80 dozen made) and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
There you go, what an uncompromised, quality focused recipe for cool climate Shiraz that is.
As with all of Rory Lane’s wines, this tastes as good as it sounds. There is a boniness and black pepper of the wet and cool vintage giving a slightly more thorny edge, but carried with though by the lovely purple plushness of classic Grampians fruit, which clearly hasn’t been lost.
That purple, ‘anomaly for the vintage’ fruit is the real joy actually, giving weight and richness, everything finished off with fine tannins (and some very firm acidity) and detail.
Ultimately this is not a classic Grampians Shiraz – it’s just not ripe enough for that – but a lovely unforced sort of a wine regardless.
A triumph for the vintage.
Source: Sample
Tasted: January 2014
www.thestory.com.au
Drink: 2014-22
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? A 2-3 glass proposition.
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