Wine lists - do they need to be local? Or just great? - Australian Wine and Drinks Review

August 19, 2014

Wine lists – do they need to be local? Or just great?

Rockpool. Is the wine too fancy?

Wine lists – do they need to be local? Or just great?

The Australian wine industry has been alight today, the fires started by a brace of pot-stirring articles decrying the lack of Australian wine on Australian wine lists.

Interestingly, the instigators were both judges on the Wine List of the Year awards, which undoubtedly gives them an edge of authority about Australian wine lists.

First we had Stu Gregor fuming at the phenomenon of the locavore with a non-local wine list and followed up by Huon Hooke complaining that restaurant wine lists are too trendy.

After reading both, I thought that the core theme of these articles is an incredibly important issue – that Australian wine lists often fail to promote Australian wines as well as they could do.

Few would argue that Australian wine could do with more coverage really, particularly given just how strong (or beleaguered, depending on your approach) Aussie wine is.

What Huon’s article (in particular) managed to do, however, was alienate some of the top producers who should be celebrated, with the likes of Sami-Odi (superb small volume Barossan reds) and Jamsheed (top Grampians and Yarra whites and reds) named and shamed as ‘darlings of the sommeliers, and largely unknown to the public.’

The problem with such a swipe, which came across more as a grumpy snap than a reasoned thought, is that it is counterintuitive to the point of the article itself – celebrating the best in Australian wine on Australian wine lists.

That jab aside, Huon went on to note that some of Australia’s best-known names – including the likes of Wolf Blass, Rosemount or Yalumba – fail to make an appearance on most of our top wine lists, while the most obscure oddities from the Jura, Etna or Greece get top billing instead.

The question then is whether such a bias is actually a bad thing? Surely when we go out we want to be challenged? We want to taste the world’s most interesting wines and eat the most interesting foods?

Attica restaurant manager Banjo Harris Plane put it more succinctly on twitter:

Eating out can be an experience, something special, something to be savoured. Why tarnish it with the usual and the mundane? Live a little
— Banjo Harris Plane (@banjohp) August 19, 2014

What was also noted on twitter is that, whilst Huon’s article swipes at the perceived imbalance of imports on top wine lists, it also fails to acknowledge an insidious issue that pervades Australian wine lists on the next level down – homogeneity.

Indeed venture beyond the land of hats and somms and you’ll discover that the bulk of Australian wine lists are crying out for some diversity (imports or otherwise), with many lists often tied up by large wine companies strangling out anything beyond the aforementioned Rosemount, Wolf Blass or Yalumba.

Conversely, Huon is also right on with another point, noting that you can commonly find reams of old Sauternes and Burgundy on lists, yet comparatively little great old Australian wines beyond verticals of Grange or a very limited pool of Aussie icons (Moss Wood, Hill of Grace et al).

Ultimately, the question to be asked is what we want in wine lists, and I’d argue that we want the very best wines we can get, Australian or not.

By the same token, what these articles are trying to suggest is that there’s much from Australia (and NZ) that is ‘the best that we can get’ and is overlooked simply because it is slightly more mainstream (like NZ Sauv Blanc).

So what do you think? Is there enough local wine on local lists? Do you want to see more local wines on local lists, or is fine dining your excuse to try something different?

Controversy, Wine

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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12 responses to “Wine lists – do they need to be local? Or just great?”

Free Run Juice – Damien

August 19, 2014 at 9:50 pm

As a UK merchant specialising in Aussie/Kiwi/Italian wines all quite interesting reading. One thought that occurred is that of wines "travelling" though; I wonder how many of those European imports so decried by Huon actually taste completely out of character (both with the food & the climate) in Oz compared to where they're from?
That's surely one of Australia & New Zealand's great accomplishments; the wines taste great in the northern hemisphere too!
Oh, and I think you'll find the bulk of ALL wine lists are crying out for diversity, but then world peace is a nice notion too!!

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1. ozwinereview
  
  August 19, 2014 at 10:35 pm
  
  World peace is a great notion!
  
  Many European wines taste different here, particularly when lots of importers still don't use reefers.
  
  Thanks for the input Damien!
  
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dontcallmekatie

August 20, 2014 at 2:39 am

Hi AG,

Nice comments. I think one of the things which bugged me about these articles is not the calling out for better Australian representation on lists, but the reference point solely of lists at a particular end of the spectrum. These lists, and these venues, are generally high end, with a particular expectation from the diner. Attacking this end of the offering for doing what they do best is a tad unfair, especially when not addressing the multitude of lists across the country offering great Aus wines. And occasionally some imports. We go to the higher end venues for an experience, and much of the time, that experience suits an imported wine over a domestic example. It suits the food or the evening better.

I would suggest that the overwhelming majority of wines sold – even on these upper end lists – would be Australian.

And shading great Aus producers for being little known? Defies logic. And is demeaning to the venues listing these wines, the producers making them, and the consumers finding a great 'something new'.

As a country, we have a huge number of producers. The only way for many of these to sell their tiny productions and to grow their business is to be placed on good wine lists, and to be endorsed by great venues and somms. These quality offerings make the industry better, and us into better diners.

The unfamiliar is not something to deride. Somms and venues such as those mentioned are as much educators as they are hospo professionals. Personally, I'd like to give them a gold star for this. Not a dressing down.

k

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1. ozwinereview
  
  August 20, 2014 at 2:44 am
  
  Agreed. The top echelon of Aussie somms are as enthusiastic promoters of Australian wine as anyone (or at least the ones I know are) and rightfully see such an article as a slur.
  
  Reply
2. Sophie
  
  August 21, 2014 at 2:58 am
  
  I take issue with this.
  
  "We go to the higher end venues for an experience, and much of the time, that experience suits an imported wine over a domestic example. It suits the food or the evening better."
  
  Why?
  
  Reply
Anonymous

August 20, 2014 at 2:54 am

I thought they were both pretty much on the money. The comment Stuart raised about locally sourced produce and an international wine list strikes me as a on the money. It seems odd that it would appear to be easier to get an obscure European variety on a wine list than a hunter semillon, which is just mad

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Anonymous

August 20, 2014 at 5:29 am

I absolutely agree with Stu on wine lists that don't showcase local product. Isn't that one of the reasons you go to a certain location? No probs with smaller makers on the list though. You don't want to drink what you can easily pick up from Dan's, or that you already have in your cellar!!

I don't frequent many top-end restaurants in any case. To be frank, I often don't see the value.

MichaelC

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Sanjay

August 20, 2014 at 6:33 am

Most relevant comment from my perspective – "whilst Huon's article swipes at the perceived imbalance of imports on top wine lists, it also fails to acknowledge an insidious issue that pervades Australian wine lists on the next level down – homogeneity". Absolutely! So many wine lists dominated or 100% with one supplier. There are 10s of 1000s of these on premise venues (incl most pubs in Australia) which are hopelessly boring/mainstream/lazy/poorly written. Incorrect spellings, no vintages listed, no region listed etc etc.

As Kate points out, even if the world of wine is on a list at a top end venue – like at Rockpool – its the Australian wines that sell the most (excluding sparkling which Champagne dominates).

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Simon

August 20, 2014 at 7:11 am

Give me more AU wines! Import dominated wine lists dissappoint IMO. I want to taste a new AU wine, support local industry and appreciate a restaurant's view on the best AU has to offer. So I agree with the articles. I don't eat out at the top end of town, so perhaps the 'very best' is out of my reach anyway.

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Anonymous

August 21, 2014 at 2:32 am

I love a good Burgundy as much as the next wine appreciator – and I'm not saying that they, and other imports, don't deserve a spot on a good restaurant wine list. What I would LOVE to see, however, is an acknowledgement of the fact that Australia has some fantastic wines which out-class (and generally out-price for value) the internationals. I think it's disappointing to read that only a quarter (give or take) of the Rockpool Perth wine list is comprised of Australian wines. I absolutely agree that dining out should be 'an experience' and that the wine list is an opportunity for sommeliers to introduce new producers/wine styles/regions to the diner. I don't agree that this means that they have to be international. Australia has MANY and varied wine regions and wine styles and I hesitate to say, but maybe it is laziness on the sommelier's part that they are not bothered to hunt for these gems and instead resort to the tried and true options from afar. This is where I depart from Huon's opinion that wine lists are 'too trendy'. I think it is fabulous that somms are promoting smaller wine producers who are doing interesting things. This is not to say that large and medium sized wineries don't deserve a place there too. The Australian wine industry can only improve if we start allowing ourselves to – if we start viewing our wines as as good as, or better than, the internationals. Sommeliers have a perfect vantage point for influencing the consumer to see Australian wine as a premium product and I think, and hope, that they will realise that.

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1. ozwinereview
  
  August 21, 2014 at 4:36 am
  
  That's a very astute comment. Particularly this paragraph:
  
  'that Australia has some fantastic wines which out-class (and generally out-price for value) the internationals'
  
  Reply
Niall

August 29, 2014 at 3:30 am

I think Huon's article sounded like a personal gripe he tried to air as if it's a problem for everyone. And he introduced information in his article that can easily be turned against his own argument.

It's true that the markup on wine in restaurants typically has them selling for 2-3 times the price at Dan's. More often towards 3 times the price than 2 times in my experience. This moves a $20 wine that could easily be a large production general market wine up into a $50 premium price tag. And a $40-$50 premium bottle gets pushed up to over $100 and into flagship wine territory.

The markup I don't have a huge problem with – they have to source the wine, buy it and store enough inventory that they can offer it without making excuses that half the wine list isn't available. And obviously make some (good) profit from it too. Fine.

But I want them to earn that profit by teaching me something, introducing me to something new. Selling me a bottle of Bin 128 for $70 or a St Henri for $200 is not going to teach me anything. Even if I have never tried these wines, I know plenty about them and I know if I want to try them, I can find them for around $25 and $70-$100 respectively. If you can offer me a by the glass of a great wine like St Henri, maybe I'm interested, especially if it pairs very well with a dish. Or maybe it it's 15 years old and it's a different wine from what I can buy today.

Tell me that a Loire Chenin blanc matches well with my dish? I'm curious. Give me a tiny taste to try, you've definitely got my attention. Tell me an unusual small producer of shiraz in the Barossa is really making something that competes with the big guys? I'm listening.

Try to sell me a 2013 Jacob's Creek Cabernet Merlot from "South East Australia" for $50? If I'm at a high end restaurant, I'm actually insulted, and now I'm asking for tap water.

I wouldn't go to Quay to get a better chef than me to cook my Woolies sirloin. Similarly, I don't want the sommelier's help to guide me through the bargain bin at Dan Murphy's. The markups for this kind of wine are not justified, even if the waiter does open the screwtop for you.

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