Our love affair with single varietals (and Sauvignon Blanc) has seen the ‘Margaret River Classic Dry White’ fall out of fashion in recent years, a move that continues to baffle me. Why ditch a perfectly good, symbiotic blend in favour of aromatics and acid?

Anyway, Sauv is the dominant force in this Clairault, all intense passionfruit and asparagus. It’s almost too aggressively Savvy really, leading to a sweet and sour palate that is big on punch but also leaves a bruise. Still, you can see that the intention to compete with the boldness of the Kiwi caricature and intensity of flavour is unrivalled, complete with raw, unripe acidity and a long finish.

Not sure I could drink this, but many will appreciate the style.

Details: 12.5%, Screwcap, $23
Source: Sample, tasted Dec 14
Drink: 2014-2016
Score: 16.5/20, 88/100
Would I buy it? No.
Buy online: Clairault website