Brash Higgins’ brilliant Vale Nero

Brash Higgins NDV Nero d’Avola Amphora 2014

Benchmark Mediterranean ‘alternative’ (whatever that means anymore) variety from the thoughtful American big man Brad ‘Brash’ Hickey.

Sourced from the Omensetter vineyard in McLaren Vale, this was handpicked and wild fermented in 200 litre clay amphora, where it then spent 180 days on skins. No oak, no worries – not missed in any way.

It’s the evenness and deep generosity, though, which makes this so very good. It tastes so lively and vital for Nero (which can often look taste pruney and scorched, even in it’s Sicilian homeland). There’s ginger, cola, black jubes and black fruit here over a beautifully round, ultra fine flow of black fruit in a stylish soft form. Immediately mouthfilling, with that blackness of Nero and lovely fine grained tannins. Thick textured, but lively through the tail, finishing gently warm and slippery. Sometimes it looks a little too rich, though it’s forgivable.

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Supremely stylish. Overflowing with heart. A glorious big hug of thick black fruit, without any bullshit or excess. More. Drink: 2015-2025?. 18.5/20, 94/100

Details: 13.6%, Screwcap, $42
Would I buy it? Yes. Satisfying wine it is too.
Buy online: Different Drop, Brash Higgins website