Topper’s Mountain New England Bricolage Blanc 2014
Topper’s Mountain – the undisputed hero of New England (the NSW New England, not the American one), if awfully marginal.
Marginal because it’s an estate focused on alternative varieties, in what is a cool ‘frontier’ wine region, with almost no profile to speak of.
Triple the fun.
This typically odd blend just ‘works’ too, marrying 64% Chardonnay, 21% Gewurtztraminer, 12% Viognier and 2% Sauvignon Blanc in what is a textural, fiercely dry (TA 6.69g/L, pH 3.4) white wine of blinding intensity and interest.
Light straw green in colour, it is driven by that Gewurrz component (Topper’s make the best Gewürztraminer in the country), yet also the many layers of Chardonnay and supplementary varieties. Long, slightly sour but refreshing, the wildly intense palate has a gentleness to match the spicy Gewurtz, a hint of peach and melon too before that twist of phenolics to finish.
A multi-faceted wine with beguiling, spicy intensity and texture and flavour, I can’t help but admire this. Just delicious. Drink: 2015-2023. 18.5/20, 94/100
Details: 12.9%, Screwcap, Sample
Would I buy if? Sure would. I’d probably drink most of the bottle too.
Buy online: Topper’s website
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Nice post. This wine looks very interesting. Andrew, can you please explain a bit of what you mean when you say the wine finishes with "a twist of phenolics"? My limited google searching brings up a bunch of sciency stuff, and I see the mentioning of tannin, but is phenolics specifically about taste or mouth-feel?