While I’m always sceptical about articles that attack the language of wine writing, but sometimes there is an element of truth in amongst the (typically lame) generalisations.
Today, it’s an article in The Conversation that takes some potshots, but also makes an important point.
Perhaps the wine industry spends more time catering for the wine connoisseur and misses the mark (particularly with labelling) for the bulk of wine drinkers?
This section, in particular, is worth considering:
‘Previous studies.. have suggested there are three to four types of wine consumer:
Connoisseurs or enthusiasts – those who know a lot about wine.
Enjoyment-based or casual wine consumers – those who enjoy quaffing their wine, and are not too fussed on impressing anyone with it.
Risk averse or value seeking wine consumers – those who do not know a lot about wine and look for special offers.
Image conscious or aspirational wine consumers – those who are not experts in wine, and are insecure about their lack of knowledge.
While there is limited evidence on the proportions of the population that make up each of the above groups, (what is) available suggests that fewer than one in five wine drinkers are connoisseurs.
It is clear that most wine drinkers are not particularly sophisticated, suggesting that overly complex wine labels are irrelevant to most of the market’.
Are they really irrelevant, or do some of those aspirational and casual wine consumers actually appreciate that there may be more than just a tasty drink in that wine bottle?
I’ll be the first to admit that the language of wine can be awfully exclusive at times, with elements like phenolics, reduction or extraction very esoteric.
But surely we need such phrases to explain what a complex beverage? Surely that is the whole point about getting into such specifics – that it breaks down the technicalities into something consumable?
I’m interested to hear what other people think – is wine language so esoteric that it alienates most wine consumers, or is that just a simplistic view?
What do you think?
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6 Comments
You just alienated me with the word Esoteric! But seriously, yes, I definitely believe it does alienate most drinkers. When I am at cellar doors with other friends and the staff are eagerly explaining how their chardonnay underwent malolactic fermentation to impart a buttery flavour to the wine I can just see my friends eyes glazing over with disinterest. Malolactic fermentation is a conversation stopper if you haven't heard the word before and don't know or care what it means. That sort of talk has its audience, no doubt, but people need to know when and where.
We can't dumb down the message, but must change the way it is delivered.
As you say mate the technical specifics are what makes wine special and if you take that away then we may as well just throw in the towel and all go make a South-East Australian Shiraz Cabernet Merlot with a porcupine on the label.
It's about using the technical terms but putting them in context. Most non-connoisseurs will still be able to relate to the concepts on some level with knowledge they have about food or otherwise. Still talk about malo, wild yeasts, phenolics, etc, but not just as stand-alone terms like so many sales people do – explain the history, the inspiration and the result. Why do it, what effect on the wine does it have, what flavour or texture does it bring to the wine, etc.
I see it every single time we host a tasting. You give people a chance to comprehend the complexities, and while they won't get it all right away, something sparks and they want to learn more and more and more.
Dumb it down and then it's just a drink and that casual drinker will never be anything but. It's our responsibility to deliver a complex message but in a relatable and understandable manner.
Hard to generalise, depends on your audience. Some people want to know more & learn others just want to drink it. My experience at cellar door is you need to tailor your message. When I get group, I throw in a couple of educational bits & then tell them either what food or occasion it goes best with i.e. Rose – summer chill out & fun with friends. People who are interested in more generally ask.
When it comes to labels, again who are you targeting? If it's a +$40 bottle at a bottleshop then its probably not a casual drinker that doesn't care what's in the bottle who is buying it. If it's sub $25 – then by all means simplify it. I like info but I'm an enthusiast however, I have educated plenty of friends & others on a few pointers that helps them make choices to suit.
The question is: "What can you do with labeling that improves the experience for the purchaser / drinker?" Occasion. Food complements. All useful stuff. And this especially matters for "newer" varieties or wines that break with the expected style for their grapes. You pretty much know what you're getting with a Kiwi Sauv Blanc or a Mclaren Shiraz. But what about this freaky Nero D'Avola stuff?
An interesting example is Between 5 Bells. The labels are both incredibly data heavy and also absolutely beautiful. But most wine makers are not related to a world-class data graphical designer (as David Fesq is to Nicholas Felton). How do you achieve multiple things at once with your labels?
The other point to note is that a label is one informational element that can be anchored to other informational sources like a website. You don't have to load everything onto a label. What is your information architecture?
Good point about the B5B labels and about expandable information – go in light, and then allow people to dig deeper if they wish.
I think the language is there for people who would like to learn more. For others, just taste it.