Canberra’s finest: Lark Hill Riesling 2015

Lark Hill Riesling 2015

There has been a considerable uplift at Lark Hill over the last few years, the quality on a constant, welcome, upwards arc. This Riesling, one of of the Lark Hill originals, is right at the forefront of this improvement, looking more and more interesting every vintage.

This ’15 has been to Germany. It’s tasted a few Grosses Gewächs, and then wandered south for a quick Wachau hit. It’s a wine that is driven by blossoms, and white peach and intensity, the strapping, grapefruit acidity matching an underplayed textural width. There’s just a slight, late palate candied fruit element that seems incongruous, but the long goal  – the second, third and fourth glasses  – are just delicious.

Wonderful Riesling that has charisma, style and flavour. Best drinking: 2015-2025. 18.5/20, 94/100. 11.5%, $35. Buy online: Lark Hill website