There’s promise for Vermentino in the Hunter, with the acid retention of this Mediterranean grape a boon for Hunter whites. Fiano might get there too.

This is definitely a step in the right direction. Green straw, it carries the tropical guava fruit aromatics of some of the richer Sardinian style, before a chalky, slightly tart and drying palate. There is just a slight disconnect here between fruit generosity and the firm palate. Promise though. Best drinking: 2016-2017. 16.5/20, 88/100. 12%, $24. Would I buy it? A glass would do.