This comes from Robe, the town forever immortalised in this cheese ad.

Pretty part of the world it is too, if isolated (a long and boring drive from Radelaide). Not known for its Gris/Grigio though, and this isn’t changing that. Numbers: pH 3.09 TA 6.8g/L RS 4.6g/L.

Initially it strikes as quite ripe – all soft Packham pear – before turning in a Grigio direction with phenolic grip, the final style more Grigio than Gris, with a slightly dull finish. Middling. Best drinking: 2016. 16/20, 86/100. 12.15%, $22. Would I buy it? No.