I’m calling it now. Vermentino should be the hero white variety of Langhorne Creek. It’s not because of fashion, or the perceived attraction of ‘alternate varieties’, more just the suitability of the variety to the region.

This Bremerton is a good example. Varietal, peppery, and refreshing, it packs in the tropical juiciness of the best Sardinian styles, with a chalky, ripe Nashi pear palate and salty, Dispirin edged palate.

Punchy, long and refreshing, this is a simple fruity wine but done very well. Two thumbs up. Best drinking: 2016-2018. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12%, $24. Would I buy it? I’d go a glass or two.