Ten Minutes by Tractor Wallis Chardonnay 2013

A top Mornington Peninsula producer, handling a warm vintage deftly.

This comes from a site on the southern slopes of Main Ridge with a N to NE aspect. Planted in 1992, it’s the estate’s lowest and oldest Chardonnay block. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed and wild fermented then matured for 9 months in barrel.

Nutty, figs and sulphide nose, the shape here is definitely riper than normal, the acid lower and the alcohol warm. The style, however, is all class, offering everything from oatmeal, some solidsy funk and a mealy rich palate tending towards white nectarine. Complexity and length mark the calibre of this wine, even though it’s a bit heavier and earlier maturing this year. Best drinking: 2016-2019. 17.8/20, 92/100. 13.6%, $65. Would I buy it? I’d definitely drink a bottle.