So this weekend sees a very large celebration of Italian fizz passing through Sydney town, with the Bolle Italia sparkling wine festival held on Sunday and Monday (full details here).
I had a sneak peak of a few of the wines featured in Monday’s ‘Degustazione’ dinner a week or so back and, again, they remind just how good Italian bubbles out there that aren’t prosecco.
That’s not to say that there is anything wrong with prosecco, but I’m often amazed at the ignorance about sparkling from this powerhouse wine nation. Much out there, lots not receiving the love it deserves (even Franciacorta is little known here, even though it is super cool in Italy).
These are some of the wines featured in the dinner on Monday eve, though circa 100 wines poured on Sunday. Likely worth a visit.
These notes are perhaps a fraction cursory but you get the drift.
Murgo Etna Brut Spumante 2011
100% Nerello Mascale from Etna. Slightly broad and almost oily mouthfeel to this. Simple fizz in a generous and approachable style. Has simple open appeal. 16.5/20, 88/100.
Ca de Mocenigo Prosecco Superiore DOC
Delicate and simple classic prosecco style. Has good direct freshness without being profound. Fresh and vital with a real airiness to it. Really drinkable and sneaky tasty. 17/20, 90/100.
Col Vetoraz Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze 2014
It’s easy to dismiss these slightly off-dry Cartizze fizz. And often the question remains about the need for residual sugar at all. But this is pretty clever wine. That initial hint of candy is at first a distraction, but underneath there is a freshness and satiny texture that is really quite nice. It’s not complex, but the purity of flavour, with the faint hints of cassis and apple, and that softness all makes for a genuinely pretty wine. 17.5/20, 91/100.
Caruso + Minini Catarratto Brut
From Marsala in Sicily. An unusual, barrel fermented style that is as much table wine as it is fizz. Cheesy and Chunky and honeyed with a breadth and phenolic grip. Acid is soft but the oxidative width is a distraction. Not quite. 15.8/20, 86/100.
Canei Durin Pigato Brut NV
Ligurian Pigato (aka Vermentino) in a delicate fizz style. I kept coming back to this and each time I liked it more. Soft and delicate and has a nice neutral, pure and vital expression of the grape. Bone dry, direct, and has a ‘just-picked’ personality. Pulls up a bit short but this is really nice drinking fizz. 17/20, 90/100.
Mirabella Franciacorta Brut NV
70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Bianco. A leesy and quite toasty style with dominant yeast characters the flavour driver. Unquestioned complexity and weight but just a fraction too heavy for mine. Question mark about whether this was a great bottle. 16.5/20, 88/100.
Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut NV
95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir. Creamy leesy style. Very creamy and Chardonnay dominant. Quite twangy acidity. It’s pleasant but very much a pale attempt at Champagne. Curious, almost grapefruit acidity. Hard not to benchmark this against Champagne. Hmm. Good length boosts this up, but still not quite a mover. 16.8/20, 89/100.
Quarticello Malvasia Emilia Frizzante Despina 2015
Malvasia from Reggio Emilia. Lovely wine! Wildly floral style of cloudy pet nat style that is unfined and unfiltered. Riotously aromatic with a whole array of musk and white cranberry fruit. Love the aromatics but stay for the full and lively palate. A kaleidoscope of flavour and a lemony finish. Genuine intrigue, though some may find it too much (and just slightly rustic). I thought it was deliciously intriguing, even if I might struggle to drink a whole bottle. 17.7/20, 92/100.
Monte delle Vigne Lambrusco Colli di Parma I Calanchi 2013
Delicious nouveau Lambrusco. Bitter red fruit, dark chocolate and a real amaro edge. Perhaps a little oxidative, but it just adds a caramel edge and plenty of interest. I like this. Lots of interest. Not wildly complex but this is satisfying and again reminds about the deliciousness of Lambrusco. More please. 17.5/20, 91/100.
Leave a Reply