Wirra Wirra RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014

The Wirra Wirra flagship Shiraz. Comes in a sexy black bottle too (if you can call a bottle sexy).

A solid, if not quite great vintage of RSW this one. There’s the trademark polish – this is a very well-run winery with attention to detail – if just the slightest hint of mixed ripeness. That means typically intense dark, black jube flavours, with a silky flow that flows with rich fruit and clever oak. It’s a fraction reductive, which just adds to the lighter shades to what is a lighter RSW, and carries just a hint of menthol and raisin. Still, that texture is A1 smooth, the alcohol doesn’t stick out, and time should be kind (even it’s not a long-term wine). Extra points for just how polished and classy this looks, even if it’s missing a punch or two.

Best drinking: 2020-2028. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $70. Would I buy it? Not quite.