De Fermo Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore 2015

This trip was the first time that I’ve been to the Abruzzo and what a joy it proved to be. The mountains, in particular, seem wilder and more contrasting than I expected, the beaches much more attractive than the heavily-built tourist land that I anticipated.

Italy, full of surprises.

This Pecorino delivers an extra edge of flavour too. Produced by the de Fermo family from a biodynamic vineyard at circa 270m asl, this gives more depth to what is an oft-neutral variety. Fermented wild with no temperature control and matured for 10 months in used oak, this unfined and unfiltered white gives up edges of lemon curd, a passing whiff of oxidative hints before a briney palate that focuses on gentle, citrus restraint, the finish crisp and clean.

Thirst-quenching white this, and was the opening to what ended up as a lock-in with a bunch of Vasto restaurateurs keen for post-service birra. God I love Italy!

Best drinking: 2017-2019. 13%, circa €26 on a list. 17.5/20, 91/100.