Goodman Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015

There’s a great freshness to this new range of wines from Kate Goodman. Understatement, low alcohol, purity. They’re Yarra wines of old, but not fusty. Just elegant.

This Pinot is the standout of the range. Sourced from the Willowlake Vineyard, which provides fruit for at least a thousand small winemakers, this includes 30% whole bunches in the blend, and matured in 20% new oak. There’s that easy ripe raspberry fruit character that is the trademark of ’15 Yarra Pinots, with a dash of woody whole bunch, the (natural) acidity just helping give this even more tang, more life. That balance between ripe fruit and a hint of spice makes this light to mid weight style appeal, the limpid pure fruit not too light, not too heavy. Perfect.

A style that will be a rewarding drink at every turn. Maybe it could have just a little more weight, but otherwise it’s a winner. Best drinking: Now to six years easy. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $40. Would I buy it? I think I would. $40 is fair.