Soumah’s serious Equilibrio Pinot Noir 2017

Soumah Equilibrio Pinot Noir 2017

Here’s one Yarra winery that has just exploded into prominence.

When I first tried the Soumah wines they were largely leafy, savoury and anything-but-mainstream Yarra wines with an Italianate bent. Now there is a myriad of different single vineyard bottlings across a smorgasbord of varieties (particularly across Chardonnay/Pinot) and the whole personality of the estate has changed. It’s like a whole new Soumah, and the wines are really good.

The Equilibrio is the pointy end of the Soumah range and it is easily the most robust of all their Pinot releases. A barrel selection, it sees more new oak (I believe), which translates into more palate weight. More whole bunch too I suspect.

This is robust Pinot, especially for 2017. Raspberry fruit on the nose with a little confection, It’s juicy and full, but with black pepper spice and even complete with bacony edges. It’s almost too full and powerful, but that density also translates into what you expect in a reserve wine – ie something substantial. Is it too much? That’s the only lingering question, but I rather like that power – it just carries you along and takes over. Quality wine.

Best drinking: Now and up to eight years. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $77. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.