Daosa Natural Reserve NV

Enter the new sparkling wine from Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser.

While I’m not sure about the ‘Natural Reserve’ tagline – it feels more like a stab at the natural wine movement than anything else – this is really clever bubbles.

Disgorged April 18, it’s a blend of 85% 2016 vintage with 15% reserve wine. 85% Pinot and 15% Chardonnay in the mix and that Pinot dominance gives this breadth, power, weight. It’s a rich, table wine-esque fizz but that doesn’t hurt the style at all. Just makes for even more of a mouthful of flavour. Despite the youth, the lees character is still there, and the fragrance and weight instantly make it much more complete and enjoyable.

$40 for average generic Champagne or a bottle of this complex and complete wine. I know where my dollars would go.

Best drinking: Good now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.1%, $40. Would I buy it? Sure would.