Bellvale Pinot Noir 2017

As the old saying goes, you can either have good Pinot or cheap Pinot. But never both. Except for this Bellvale wine.

John Ellis’ dry-grown Gippsland vineyard can deliver some excellent, concentrated wines, even if there is some vintage variation, with Pinot the star.

And this red is far too good for $25, it’s initially quite fragrant, despite the obvious ripenss, with meat and almost plum fruit – there’s a density that I always see in the Bellvale wines. Savoury, vaguely spritzy and with a great composure it’s a substantial wine – if just a little dry reddish – at an excellent price. Best drinking: Now to five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14%, $25. Would I buy it? Yes.