I like feedback. Even negative feedback is useful if it’s not abusive. So if ever you agree/disagree/take issue with something I’ve written, email me and let’s chat about it. Or just to talk bullshit about wine. Email me. Especially if you’re a winemaker.
Stuart Dudine from Alkimi did just that after taking umbrage at some of the vintage comments in this series. His point is that vintage generalisations can stigmatise a whole harvest (hello 2011) and drag down unaffected producers in the process. As Stuart mentions, the 2020 harvest in the Yarra Valley looks great – moderate to average yield, with picking tending slightly later than normal.
In other words, promising conditions. Quite a contrast to say, Canberra, with vignerons copping 100mm of rain in one ridiculous hit over the weekend. For some producers it was the final straw for any hope of a crop, with the combo of drought, smoke and now floods killing vintage before it has begun.
Again, it won’t be for all Canberra winemakers. Just like 2020 won’t be a complete write-off even in the smoke taint hit Hunter Valley. But hey, who’d want to grow grapes?
Meanwhile, Stuart sent through a few of his new releases (plus an Alkimi stubby holder) which I’ve just started looking at. This week the Alkimi Grenache 2018 ended up on the bench and I like…
From the Humis vineyard in Heathcote, it’s a sprightly, vital Grenache in a welcome modern mode. Made from fruit split into 3 batches with varying levels of whole bunches, whole berries and time on skins, it’s light coloured, tangy and raspberry-laden. You could close your eyes and imagine it’s Yarra Nebbiolo, except the raspberry fruit is all Grenache (and those aren’t Nebbiolo tannins). Speaking of tannins, this has no shortage of tannic grip, which means you wouldn’t call it an easy wine. But the raspberry tang and the mid palate sweet fruit make this quite appealing.
Unconventional, sure, but the interest factor is high. Well worth a glass or two for drinking over the next few years. 13.7%, $32. 17.7/20, 92/100
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5 Comments
Actually Andrew,re 2011 reds i have very few in the cellar but opened a Chapel Hill Mourvedre on the weekend and it was a revelation. But then again, I will very dubious of 2020 wines from just about anywhere other than WA.
Vintage 2020 in Bendigo is giving us some beautifully balanced fruit in Shiraz, Chardonnay, Viognier (sorry Andrew) and Merlot. The Sangiovese is looking good too. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are looking poor which I have heard reiterated by others in the region. Cold, wet and windy conditions at flowering was the major issue leading to chicken and hen and extremely light bunches. No smoke issues. Our Yarra Pinot Noir is also looking the goods this vintage. Fingers crossed and good luck to anyone crazy enough to do this wine thing.
The longer I’ve been collecting and drinking wine the more I have come to realize that among the better producers vintages don’t matter. Good vintners make the best wine they can given the conditions and it is up to us, the consumer, to drink them accordingly, with the right food and the right time. If the winery has the pedigree and the reputation then one needn’t worry about the vintage. Just my two cents, based on drinking “weak vintage” wines.
Speaking of Canberra and vintage challenges. 2020 Clonakilla vintage a write-off: https://clonakilla.com.au/news/statement-on-the-2020-vintage/
Transparency and Realism.
Transparency in my mind is NOT to have the winemaker talk up a vintage that was tough in the extreme (VIctoria 1996, 2002, 2011 and 2014), but admit is was tough. They did their best, you cannot ask for more, because everyone else was in the same boat.
Realism… such a minuscule amount of the buying public actually read the reviews, or even care.