Everything old is new again.

Three decades after ‘Burgundy’ style light dry reds disappeared from our shores and suddenly they’re back in vogue again.

And I’m here for it. I’m here for wines like these two, which are expressly built to be smashable, yet with an extra level beyond vins de soif.

Satisfying? You betcha.

Eldridge Estate PTG 2019

Sadly, David Lloyd reports that the 2020 yields at Eldridge will be less than half normal numbers (largely due to problems at flowering) which makes this ’19 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay even more valuable. Built in the Passe-Tout-Grains model, this 50/50 PN/GMY blend spends 6 months in oak. It’s surprisingly firm too, despite what I said above, with real tannins and a hint of mulchy spice. Even the fruit spectrum is more dark fruit, more cherry than something fleeting and pretty. More cru Beaujolais than some basic Bourgogne if you’re looking for a benchmark (and tasty). Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5%, $35. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle.

Oakridge Pinot Meunier 2019

Nouveau style Yarra Valley Meunier, but it’s more than that. It’s crunchy, juicy, raspberried and red apple edged, the 100% whole berries giving a shovel load of fruit in the mix. There’s this plumpness, an easiness and yet, again, it doesn’t shy away from tannins. It’s very primary and perky, but that tannin contrast makes for a wine that’s really a wine. Yes. Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.6%, $30. Would I buy it? Also keen to share a bottle when lockdown is over.