Wirra’s Scrubby Rise are now all regional releases, which is impressive for a sub $20 Shiraz. I’m less of a fan of the Scrubby Rise white, but this goes well. Incidentally, Wirra have a $30 million hotel in the works too and it’s sorely needed – McLaren Vale has so little decent accommodation that most people just end up staying in Adelaide.

Anyway, this captures all the good bits about simple Vale Shiraz  – plump dark berry plum fruit, lots of it, minimal tannins and soft jubey flavour. Easily attractive commercial red with no alarms and no surprises. Best drinking: nowish. 16.5/20, 88/100. 14.5%, $18. Would I buy it? A glass maybe.