Graeme’s Blend is always the best Passing Cloud release. Sure, the Macedon wines have the style, but Bendigo is the beating heart (and it shows).

This red aims high and almost misses the mark, with alcohol and firm acidity threatening to take over. But the molten dark berry fruit goes on and on, in true Bendigo form, lingering on and on – it feels decadent, convincing in its tannins and mid palate weight. Quality, in a certain large and weighty form. Best drinking: now to fifteen years plus. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.7%, $34. Would I buy it? Well worth a few glasses.