First came the Gamay, now meet the Rising Pinot Noir 2019.

This release comes from the rocky soils of the Rising Vineyard,  and from the outset it aims high. 33% whole bunches in the ferment and matured in 30% new oak. You can see the hard site born out in the wine – it’s bony, but not ungenerous. Sinewy, with a layer of vanilla oak lifting up the palate, the mode less about generosity and more about savour. An intellectual Pinot and ultimately it works, though don’t come looking for instant gratification. Like.

Best drinking: now to seven years. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $30. Would I buy it? Half a bottle easily, maybe more.