Graciano is still yet to find its feet in Australia – a variety without a local identity. This red goes a long way towards a Graciano baseline.

It spends 14 months in older oak, though there is a vanilla bean sweetness through the middle. It’s not unattractive either. Chunky blackberry, milky richness and a really plush palate – it’s like modern Rioja. You don’t see the alcohol stick out either, and Graciano acidity keeps everything quite trim. More medium-bodied savoury McLaren Vale red than Graciano, but I quite like the texture and the savour. Good stuff.

Best drinking: now to ten years plus. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $40. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.