I haven’t seen any of the newest d’Arenberg releases, probably because of this review of the Dead Arm. Life is too short to not be brutally honest. Wines like this d’Arenberg The Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2018 are still really good (as have been all the recent d’Arenberg Grenache FWIW).

Grippy as ever, but has lovely red cherry fruit. Glows with red Grenache joy. So varietal. The slight volatility is a nod to the worst d’Arenberg days but the vibrant fruit is lovely. I enjoyed this – charisma at a fair price.

Best drinking: now to ten years plus. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $29. d’Arenberg website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.