Quintessential Durif from Paul Dahlenburg (Bear) and Lauretta Schulz (Laurie) using fruit from vineyards at Eldorado & Rutherglen. Paul is doing excellent work at Baileys FWIW too.

The criticism with Durif is that it can be too big, too heavy and monotonal. But this rises above to deliver a more nuanced expression. Black fruit in a thick-set, warm and dense mode through the middle and lightly tannic. If anything, it’s a little short on tannin but you can forgive that to get a bit more complexity, with a licoricey line through the middle.

The best Durif in the country, yet again.

Best drinking: now to ten years. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $37. Eldorado Road website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses at the least.