This is an awful lot of wine for $20. Harewood’s best work is in Riesling and well-priced reds, and this Harewood Estate Shiraz Cabernet 2018 is bang on.

It feels a bit ripe and coffeed given the cool clime Great Southern origins (save for a little mint), the palate richly berry-fruited, lightly warm and so substantial. Ultimately, that fuller weight is what you’d expect in something much more expensive, marking this immediately as a runaway bargain.

Best drinking: now to at least eight years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $20. Harewood Estate website. Would I buy it?