Wes Pearson’s Fiano packs in some intensity. This Juxtaposed Bigger Boat Fiano 2019 comes off the Lacey Vineyard in McLaren Vale. Whole bunch pressed to barrel, fermented wild, kept on lees for 4 months at cold temps, bottled unfined and unfiltered. There’s a kaleidoscope of flavour here – cloudy apple juice, hints of nutty solids elements, the palate thick and lightly phenolic. Has a clear identity – a really strong appley fruit intensity. I find it polarising, the tang and varietal flavour undeniable, even if it’s just a little sweet and sour. Character. Would make a great wine list option.

Best drinking: now to three years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $26. Juxtaposed website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.