The latest step forward into premium wine for Bill Calabria and family, this Calabria Alternato 2017 is an unusual blend of Barossa Durif, Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano and Shiraz.

Blackberry fruited, warm and framed by oak tannins this medium bodied, jubey and immediate red is certainly full-flavoured. You can see the components here, but it all feels a little overwrought and heavy. Not without appeal, even if it would be better with less. Or am I missing the point?

Best drinking: will be more impressive next year when components come together, then up to ten years. 17/20, 90/100. 14%, $45. Would I buy it? No. A bit blunt for mine.