Mark this Forty Paces Pinot Noir 2017 on the ‘try me ‘ sheet.

Setup by Jason Peasley in 2001, Forty Paces is a 1.5ha plot at Pipers Creek in the Macedon Ranges. planted to three clones of Pinot that together, yield about 2 tonnes from the vineyard (so very low yields). Indeed, this is one of just 1,715 bottles produced. 10% whole bunches in the mix, it spent 19 days on skins and 15 months in barrel.

At first, I thought the leafy whole bunch character was too much, but the underlying raspberry coulis and whispers of blackberry and very very fine tannins suggest otherwise. To think this was achieved at 12.5% alcohol! It’s a compelling wine this, a deftly handled, just ripe style that is driven by the mid palate fruit, the back end just a little angular but ultimately refreshing, Cliche, perhaps, but Victoria via Burgundy, and yet charismatic too. Perhaps a bit bony for some, but I loved the vinosity and spice. Well worth a punt.

Best drinking: now to six or so years for a start. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.5%, $44. Forty Paces website. Would I buy it? Well worth a bottle.