Jason Schwarz’s typically approachable Meta wines in good form again. This Schwarz Wine Co. Meta Mataro 2019 is handpicked Barossa fruit, wild fermented with 28% whole bunches. A berry delight that showcases ripe Mataro fruit, if just a little simple for big points. Slurpability factor high.

Best drinking: now to ten years for a start. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.2%, $35.  Schwarz website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.